An EVOO brand boom—but what about olive oil quality?

The vibe is cool, and it has all the seemingly right buzzwords, but then you scratch your head and wonder: is it actually high-quality olive oil? Or just a pretty bottle? How’s one to know?

You’re probably familiar with this experience: you followed an olive oil business (like, let’s say, Citizens of Soil) and now every time you go on Instagram, you’re getting served up an ad for a new, easy-on-the-eyes olive oil brand.

So today, we want to address the elephant in the olive oil-filled room: the EVOO branding boom, and its impact on olive oil quality. That is, what it means for you as the shopper, what it means for the industry, and how you can empower yourself to make good choices–both culinary and ethically.

The rise of fancy olive oil brands: the state of the industry.

Let’s start by laying some groundwork. It’s an exciting time for the industry. Enthusiasm for the product abounds, and a new brand seems to crop up daily. A rising tide raises all ships, and we are beyond thrilled to see increasing excitement for the olive oil we love so much. There’s more to it than meets the eye, though, so let’s break it down.

How marketing hype can overshadow quality.

Here’s the thing about olive oil: it’s a misunderstood product that has too often been relegated to the commodity category. As a result, there’s minimal knowledge and education around how to decipher the good from bad, the for-real from the fraud. Without that foundational knowledge at a shopper level, what ends up happening is that we buy with our eyeballs versus our taste buds.

And savvy marketers know this. Rather than understanding the product from the literal ground up—the industry, the quality, the product and agricultural factors at play—they go at it top down. They force fit olive oil production and sales to meet traditional business objectives, like scaling at all costs, and creating a homogenised and predictable product—all in lieu of a business being driven by actual quality, farmers’ livelihoods, proper stewardship for the environment, and the nuances of the category.

How scaling up can sacrifice olive oil quality.

Indeed scaling in the world of olive oil is a very tricky thing! There are multiple ways an olive oil business can scale….and, unfortunately, many of them sacrifice olive oil quality.

Scaling based on olive varietal.

First, a business could scale production based on olive varietal, as certain olive types are more conducive to high-density farming. This means that the olive groves can grow in rows, not unlike vineyards, and can even be harvested with the same machines. This ups production, and reduces harvesting costs. Sounds great, right?

Not so fast. This also, not surprisingly, can impact quality (not to mention the social and environmental impact). That’s because olives that are suitable for this type of high-density farming also tend to be those olives that produce less exciting olive oil. Some producers have managed to crack this and still prioritise flavour and nature, but the vast majority are about squeezing margins and maximising profits. 

Scaling based on when you harvest.

That’s right, the timing of when you pick the fruit can change your yield. That’s because the later you harvest an olive, the more oil you can squeeze out of each one. And if you’re already in the business for the high-volume production, then you’re also probably keen to produce more olive oil, even if quality takes a hit. 

And guess what, those late harvests definitely impact quality. Because while you may get more oil, that same oil is going to have fewer polyphenols, and also a higher propensity to rot before the olives even get to the mill. Translation: the resulting olive oil is less healthy, less flavourful, and much more likely to have defects and go rancid more quickly. 

Note here that you can make some beautiful and delicate late harvest EVOOs. If anything, it’s actually more difficult and risky from a quality perspective to get it right—but it will compromise on the bolder flavours and nutritional-density.

Scaling by blending.

The other option is to blend in order to produce more of the same olive oil. Big olive oil businesses that wish to scale seek to produce a consistent product, in part because shoppers expect it, and also because it’s easier to market (one product to sell with one flavour profile, season after season, bottle after bottle). But achieving consistency is a massive challenge if you’re really focused on quality.

So what you’re left to do is blend oils of completely different origins. Does this mean you end up with a low-quality product? Not inherently. But does it make it harder to produce a single reliably high-quality one at scale? Absolutely.

How to choose high-quality extra virgin olive oil and make an impact.

At this point, you might be feeling a bit frustrated as a shopper. You want good olive oil, you want to support the industry and the land—but aren’t sure how best to do that. So we want to give you the tools to discern the good from the bad, both in terms of olive oil, and also business.

What to look for in a high-quality extra virgin olive oil.

Both virtual and brick-and-mortar shelves are packed with olive oils. And at first blush, they might seem to claim the same thing. So how to tell the difference? Together these different tips will help you understand what quality you might expect: 

• Harvest date: oftentimes, olive oil producers won’t include a harvest date, but rather just an expiration date—which isn’t all that helpful. Look for a harvest date (month and year) instead, as it shows the producer’s focus on quality. The freshest oils come from the most recent harvest—typically autumn for Northern Hemisphere oils and spring for those from the Southern Hemisphere.

• Bottle type: high-quality extra virgin olive oil is stored in dark or opaque glass bottles or containers to protect it from light, which degrades the oil. Avoid clear glass or mono-material plastics as they allow light exposure or chemical interaction that can harm the oil’s quality.

• Size: it can be tempting to buy a big tin of olive oil; the price feels right, and you’ll have a supply for a long time. But they expose the oil to air over time, accelerating oxidation and spoiling the flavor. Buying smaller containers helps maintain freshness. To preserve freshness, buy quantities you can use within three months of opening. You can always buy two smaller bottles and open one at a time. Or, a multi-layer bag-in-box or pouch are what the olive oil schools recommend for the ultimate freshness (something we’ve tested against our glass bottles after 2 years as well). 

• Origin: look for oils labeled from a single country or even a single estate for better traceability and care in production. Vague blends like “EU origin” or “Mediterranean blend” often focus on volume and cost rather than quality.

• Polyphenol information: extra virgin olive oil’s polyphenols are powerful antioxidants that give high-quality EVOO its signature peppery bite and contribute to olive oil’s health benefits. While not always listed, some producers share polyphenol levels (typically 250+ mg/kg) on the label or website. Higher levels usually indicate a fresher, more robust oil with better nutrition and longer shelf life. Keep in mind, polyphenol content decreases over time or with poor storage, so freshness still matters most.

What to avoid or ignore.

• First cold pressed: these days, the term ‘first cold pressed’ is for pure marketing purposes, as most modern and high-quality extra virgin olive is not pressed (it’s extracted), and there is no second or third of anything—just one run and done. And cold? Relatively speaking, sure. EVOO is not heated up like refined oil, but rather produced at roughly room temperature.

• Olive oil colour: while it’s tempting to judge an oil by its colour, it is not an indicator of quality. In fact, it’s so important to not judge it by colour that in olive oil competitions and certifications, colour is masked by the classic azure blue tasting glasses so that opinions on quality are not swayed. 

What to taste for in real extra virgin olive oils.

You’ve followed all the above tips and now have a bottle of liquid gold in your possession – now it’s time for the real quality test. But what to look for?

• Fruitiness: this refers to the fresh, vibrant flavors of just-harvested olives. Depending on ripeness, it can taste green (like grass or tomato leaf) or ripe (like almond or banana). Good oil should smell fresh—never flat, musty, or greasy.

• Bitterness: good olive oil has a pleasant bitterness—a sign of healthy antioxidants. It might taste like arugula or green olives. This bite signals freshness; if the oil is too smooth or buttery, it may lack depth or be defective.

• Pungency: spiciness in olive oil—that peppery, throat-tingling kick—is a sign of polyphenols and freshness. It’s actually good for you, which is why a spoonful of olive oil a day is often recommended. If there’s no bite, the oil may be old, low in antioxidants, or not truly extra virgin.

Our commitment to quality and sustainability in olive oil production.

While many producers scale by prioritizing yield or consistency—often at the expense of quality—we’ve chosen a different path. At Citizens of Soil, scaling doesn’t mean cutting corners. It means scaling with integrity.

• Multi-farm sourcing, not blending for sameness: We partner with a network of like-minded farmers to select the best oils each harvest; not to homogenize, but to celebrate variety and regional character.

• Expertise from grove to bottle: Our co-founder is an olive oil sommelier, and we work closely with other expert tasters and growers who share our values and commitment to excellence.

• Citizen education: We believe transparency drives better choices. That’s why we’re dedicated to sharing knowledge, not just selling bottles.

• Fair, direct trade: Our farmers are paid fairly, allowing them to farm sustainably and with care.

• Regenerative practices: We support growers who treat the land as a living system, building soil health, biodiversity, and a resilient future for olive farming.

FAQs about olive oil brands and quality.

Are expensive olive oil brands worth it?

They certainly can be! But it’s always important to consider why they’re expensive. If the higher price reflects early harvest olives, small-batch production, regenerative farming, and fair wages for farmers, then yes – you're likely getting a high-quality product that’s better for your health, the environment, and the industry. But sometimes, the price tag just reflects good branding and fancy packaging. Always look for real indicators of quality like harvest date, origin transparency, proper packaging, and clear production practices to know if it’s truly worth the splurge.

How can you tell if olive oil is real?

The best way to tell if you have a bottle of real extra virgin olive oil—and not just labeled that way—is to look for transparency and pay close attention to the details. Quality EVOO will list a harvest date (not just an expiration date), come in a dark glass or tin container, and specify the origin. Avoid vague blends and flashy marketing claims without substance. And most importantly, taste it: legitimate extra virgin olive oil should be fruity, bitter and peppery—not flat or greasy. Your palate is often the best judge.

What are common olive oil branding tricks to watch out for?

One of the biggest culprits is the term ‘first cold pressed’, which might sound impressive but doesn't define the modern extra virgin olive oil making process or the product's quality. Also look for the harvest date. If you only see an expiration or “best before”, it's more likely the olive oil quality isn't as good. Also pay attention to vague origins like ‘EU blend’. While this might sound romantic, it's a strong indicator that olive oil quality is not top notch. Long story short: true quality comes from transparency, not trendy marketing, so always look beyond branding.